The US apparel and textile industry was long set up to limit competition from nations in the developing world, but shifts in international trade regulation in the 1990s changed that, and paving the way for the fast fashion industry to develop.

Fast fashion companies such as Temu and Shein often took advantage of the de minimis exemption, a US tariff loophole that ended in 2025.

Trade between the US and China has increased in recent decades

After China joined the World Trade Organization in 2001, the trade partnership between the US and China bloomed. But it's not without pros and cons, including lower prices for US consumers and higher profits for US corporations alongside the loss of American jobs due to import competition and multinational companies moving overseas.

Listen to a podcast interview with an industry expert about why abstaining from fast fashion is so difficult for many Americans.

Fast fashion brands sell cheap clothing by limiting how much they pay workers, using cheap synthetic material, and avoiding constraints on production levels and resulting environmental impacts.

There's a fast fashion graveyard in Chile's Atacama Desert full of used clothing from the US, Europe, and Asia.

Nike’s labor practices became controversial in the 1990s—leading to widespread protests of the brand

In the 1990s, Nike came under fire for its use of factories with unsafe working conditions and child labour to produce its products. While Nike didn’t own the manufacturing sites, many people felt Nike was ultimately responsible for using sweatshops in countries like Vietnam and Thailand.

Tariffs once fueled the US economy

US tariffs peaked in 1930 with the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act, which slashed global trade by 65%. Once a key revenue source, tariffs gave way to income taxes in 1913, leading to decades of lower trade barriers. Today, US tariffs remain among the lowest worldwide.

See how much it costs to produce 100 t-shirts in different countries, from about $1,750 in the US to $855 in Bangladesh.

The General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade and its successor, the WTO, was formed to reduce trade barriers between nations

Data from the WTO shows that this effort was successful, resulting in a quadrupling of global trade in goods and a reduction of tariff rates of member states by 44%. This indicates that the post-World War II international efforts to create a more liberal trade environment have been successful.

250 years of world trade history

Adam Smith's revolutionary ideas about free trade were often ignored throughout American history to protect domestic industry—until World War II caused a shift in sentiment about global trade.

The GATT and its successor, the WTO, were established to lower trade barriers

Signed in 1947, the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade began systematically reducing tariffs and trade barriers among member nations. In 1995, it was replaced by the World Trade Organization, which expanded those rules and established a formal dispute settlement system.

Tariffs are typically paid by the importing company or organization to the US treasury

Tariffs levied on foreign countries are typically paid by the importer upon arrival of goods—for example, if Walmart imported a $100 pair of shoes, they would pay the US treasury an additional $15 under a 15% tariff rate. The degree to which these costs are passed onto consumers depends on real-world business agreements.

Countries tried to curb plastic waste, but the US keeps shipping more

Data show that American exporters continue to ship plastic waste overseas, often to poorer countries, even though most of the world has agreed to not accept it.

Chinese clothing retailer Shein accounts for about half of fast-fashion sales in America.

After making its US debut in 2015, Shein's sales surged during the pandemic—in 2023, the fast fashion company was valued at roughly $66B.

Steve Jobs once explained why iPhones can’t be made in the US

In 2011, then-President Obama asked Steve Jobs, “What would it take to make iPhones in the United States?” Steve Jobs said it wasn’t a viable option, explaining that overseas factories had far outpaced the US’s in terms of skill and speed.

Trump's 2025 tariffs represent a significant break from the rules-based trade order

The Trump administration imposed broad tariffs on other countries outside WTO rules in 2025, claiming that those countries had long violated trade agreements and that the US was simply leveling the playing field.

Auto and consumer goods companies absorbed billions in costs due to President Trump's 2025 tariffs

Detroit's three automakers combined paid $6 billion in tariffs in 2025. Procter & Gamble raised prices on 25% of its products, and supply chain experts estimate that 80-85% of all tariff costs were absorbed domestically—either by companies or consumers.

The Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act is among the most famous pieces of economic legislation in the US

In a desperate move to save the economy from the deepening global depression, the US placed tariffs on thousands of goods from abroad. This approach backfired, as many of America’s trade partners took retaliatory measures.

The first recorded worker strike in the United States happened in 1768

That year, journeymen tailors went on strike to protest a wage reduction. By 1794, cobblers in Philadelphia formed the nation’s first trade union, the Federal Society of Journeymen Cordwainers. But that’s just the beginning of labor union history in the US.

The venture capital mindset is shaping the US into a 'portfolio state'

For decades, the US has operated as a low-regulation, private-sector-driven, globalized economy (also known as neoliberalism). In recent years, the Trump administration has taken direct stakes (rather than providing subsidies) in private companies with strategic products like semiconductors and rare earths. This paper argues the approach allows the US to capture the upside of growth.

China's WTO membership produced significant disputes

Two decades after China joined, its trade practices—such as state subsidies, intellectual property disputes, and market access restrictions—have sparked accusations that it has not fully met WTO commitments of free and open trade.

With the help of one photographer who took photos of children at work, child labor in the US was eventually restricted by law in the mid-1900s.

Every US state's top import partner

Mexico, Canada, and China are the top trade partners for 42 of the states.

The overall economic effect of President Trump's 2025 tariffs remains unclear

Researchers from UCLA and Yale found that tariff revenue and gains to US producers largely offset importers' costs—but the broader picture is murkier, as the trade deficit rose, manufacturing jobs declined, and 90% of tariff costs were passed through to importers rather than absorbed by foreign exporters.

China's National Sword policy banned imports of most recyclable materials

In 2018, China stopped accepting most of the world's recyclables. This highlighted how dependent the US recycling system was on a single foreign buyer and forced cities to landfill materials they had once diverted.

The global economy runs on US dollars

Nearly 90% of international trade in 2019 was processed in US dollars. It's not only the most circulated currency in the world but also considered one of the most stable.

Global trade volume is roughly 45 times what it was when the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade was founded

Since 1950, world trade values have grown nearly 410 times, mainly due to the successive tariff reductions negotiated under GATT and the WTO.

The WTO is the global body that sets and enforces the rules of international trade

Founded in 1995, with 164 member countries, the WTO negotiates trade agreements, resolves disputes between nations, and aims to reduce barriers to international commerce.

Read how Fordism helped invent the American middle class

Henry Ford's revolution of the assembly line and American manufacturing as a whole gave rise to the American middle class. The introduction of the $5 workday (in exchange for eight-hour days of highly repetitive work) raised factory workers' wages enough to reorient the economy around consumer demand.

An economic evaluation of US tariffs

Most economists agree that the implementation of large-scale tariffs on foreign goods would hurt both the American and global economies. This video from The Wall Street Journal explains the rationale for tariffs as a tool for domestic job creation, but explains why they may hurt the overall economy.

The history of the World Trade Organization

This episode of the "Brettonomics with Nancy Jackson" podcast explores the history of the WTO and its predecessor, the GATT, revealing the key people, negotiations, and decisions that shaped today's international trade rules.

Dry goods stores sold products such as textiles and linens

RH Macy started Macy’s as a dry goods store in 1858. At the time, the store was located on New York City’s 14th Street. Dry goods stores later rebranded themselves for the future of retail around the 1930s.

A trade war is an economic conflict where nations impose tariffs or other trade barriers on each other in retaliation for similar actions

The US-China trade war is one example. While they aim to protect domestic industries, they can lead to higher prices for consumers and strained international relations.

Read an overview of US tariff policy before the second Trump Administration

This comprehensive report from the Congressional Research Service explores the evolving role of tariffs—from a major source of government revenue to a tool for trade and foreign policy—providing insights into current practices, legal foundations, and global trade dynamics.

Critics argue that the World Bank, IMF, and WTO were designed to serve Western interests

Some analysts from developing nations argue that the Bretton Woods institutions were designed to reinforce Western economic dominance rather than to promote fair development for poorer countries. Supporters respond that these institutions have improved living standards worldwide.

The Tariff Act of 1789 was one of America's first acts

One of the first acts ever passed by the United States Congress instituted tariffs on foreign goods. The bill was sponsored by then-Congressman James Madison and signed into law by President George Washington. The goods the first Congress felt necessary to tax included Jamaican rum, playing cards, and—of course—British tea.

Understanding why the US can't use its own crude oil and depends on global markets

Before advancements in fracking technology made lighter shale oil readily available, US refineries had been built and optimized for decades to process heavier oil from other countries with high profitability. Despite being able to refine lighter oil, US oil companies can operate with better margins by exporting it to other nations whose refineries are optimized for it and importing heavier oil, for which the US has the infrastructure.