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Emmental cheese, what's often called 'Swiss cheese,' requires cheesemakers to create a specific set of imperfections.
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Emmental is a strictly controlled form of cheese, with regulations requiring that its milk be produced within approximately 12 miles of where the cheese will be made.
Impurities in the milk, many due to hay particles, are critical for the formation of holes in Emmental.
The cleanliness at farms today could eliminate the iconic characteristic, though cheesemakers are finding ways to preserve the holes that help define the cheese.
The cheese is produced in large wheels, apparently because customs used to charge by the wheel rather than by weight, leading cheesemakers to enlarge the wheels to save money.
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